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ESBELLİ EVİ IN THE PRESS & WEB |
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Food and Travel - September, 1998
Sophie Pither
Page 56
Going Underground
Quite the best place to stay is cave-hotel Esbelli Evi Pansiyon, on the rocky fringes of rgp. Owner Sha Ersz spent seven years restoring the seven, sixth-century cave rooms and is the first to admit that so few beds don't make fast cash. But Sha's genteel and unassuming style is becoming legendary among seasoned travellers. And if you happen to bump into stanbul's Australian Consulate General or Bartholomew, Archbishop of Constantinople, New Rome and an Ecumenical Patriarch, they'll tell you that they found it rather special, too. Esbelli's guest book is crammed wiith the words of edulatory dignitaries. When Sha greets you like a long-lost relative you'll know you've arrived somewhere exceptional.
Half of the hotel is above ground and half below. The upper level, added in the 1890s, is furnished in traditional Turkish style (by Sha's mother). Settle in on the low, rug-covered Ottoman divans; so compatible with late-night lounging. Relax, because if Sha has his way you'll be here for at least three days - he thinks anything less is simply not enough. And if enjoying a sun-downer on the stone roof-terrace after a day at the sites, listen to one of Sha's classical or jazz CDs (there are speakers in the flowerpots).
Deep Sleep
Go down to the bedrooms and enter a honeycomb of caves. The rock keeps the temperature cool during the day, saving the heat for chilly nights. All rooms have bathrooms and one is in a former rock-cut kitchen complete with soaring chimney. The natural, streaky-strata decor comes in just-stirred biscuit mixture-colours range from pale gold to chocolate.
Two lounges, a laundry and kitchen are at your disposal; just wander in and make yourself a cup of tea if you please. Complimentary bottled drinking water is another welcome touch and breakfast, an informal help-yourself, can be taken in the little breakfast room or out in the morning sun on the terrace.
Photo by Mark Luscombe-Whyte
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